Fashion Shows Who's New at LFW's Estethica
ajna by Beryl ManWhile London Fashion Week celebrates 25 years of fashion, Estethica is enjoying its seventh season, and is now the most well established mecca to discover the latest in the world of ethical fashion. Today we reveal the latest new labels to join Estethica and share their Spring/Summer 2010 collections.
Beryl Man is no stranger to fashion. As a former designer for Donna Karan and Calvin Klein, her Ajna label, which hails from New York City, is here in London and is quick proving a hit. While presenting its Spring/Summer 2010 collection, it was their alpaca winter pieces that initially stood out for their organic sculptural flair and original eye for detail. Made fairly by a Peruvian women's cooperative, Ajna's organic signature look shines through: innovative stitch detailing and a beautiful drape.
Ajna's collection for the summer months is equally elegant, with draped sculptural tops, dresses, peace silk balloon trousers and much more. Its line boasts a variety of fabrics to adorn the feminine form: organic cotton, hemp silk, ahimsa silk (vegan wild silk), biodegradable viscose, bamboo, sasawashi (bamboo leaves and paper), pina (pineapple), abaca (banana leaf), organic wool, himalayan cashmere and indigenous alpaca.
Each piece is highly covetable for its modern look and is a big nod to the indigenous artisan skills employed to give this polished natural look. Ajna, the high-end ready to wear label is one to definitely watch.
From further afield, Bird from Australia is also showing off its colourful, ethical collection. Quickly establishing itself as a household name 'down under', we think Bird Textiles will catch the attention of fashion loving folk fast in the Northern Hemisphere too. While the driving force behind Bird, Rachel Bending, may reside in the laid back epicentre of alternative culture, Byron Bay, we were very much struck by her sustainable ambitions.
Bird is environmentally sound in three fundamental ways: Its fabrics are made using SKAL CUC certified organic yarn; its fabrics are hand printed using water based dyes and all its clothes are manufactured using solar power. But what we loved most is Bird's refreshing prints and dress shapes. Unique, bold and solar powered!
Also based 'Down Under', but from the urban metropolis of Sydney, is Rachael Cassar. Casser takes an upcycled approach to sustainable dressing; her semi couture designs are made from high quality cast-offs that have been deconstructed and redesigned with a totally unique look and feel.
Not surprisingly, WGSN, the global trend analysis and forecasting resource, has nominated Rachael Cassar as one of 12 new designers to watch this year. Having viewed Rachael Cassar's collection, her novel take on upcycling and cohesive black and white collection, make this label stand out from both an aesthetic and conservation perspective. Intricate, glamorous and original.
Rosette is the label created by Stamo Ampatielou, a Greek designer based in London. Rosette's pieces are immaculately tailored to flow around the body and feature stunning details like ruffles and pin-tucks.
Stamo immediate caught our attention with its use of exceptional hand pleating and vivid colours. Liking their flexibility, this collection will be available in six different colours. As for Rosette's ethics, all their garments are made in Engliand and its sustainable fabrics supplied by Laurent Garigue (think Chanel and Lacroix).
Giving clothes a new lease of life is Globe Hope with their eco chic take on upcycling. Using a variety of reclaimed materials - old hospital textiles, army wear, work-wear, vintage materials, seatbelts, old sails and advertisement banners - Globe Hope have created a range of fashion forward styles, bags and accessories as if brand new.
Globe Hope is a Finnish label and their approach to eco fashion has been warmly welcomed at home, recently winning the prestigious “Suomi Palkinto 2006” from the Finnish Ministry of Culture for significant contribution within the fields of Art and Culture. Let's hope the international buyers are equally enamored by Globe Hope so it makes its way onto international shopping streets soon.
The well established French label, ZINS, has paired up with Ba Faro to champion a collaborative approach to eco fashion with its 100% organic ready to wear collection for men and women. Not only is this classic label with a twist organic, it also embraces non toxic finishes and dyes and employs traditional artisans in its fair trade workshop.
Its anti-waves lining definitely made an impact on us, and in this technological age, may prove highly successful. Anti-wave lining inside the pants and jacket pockets have been designed to protect us from the waves arising from cell phones, yet don't prevent receiving calls. Clever yet stylish.
Also making its debut at Estethica is British label, The North Circular. Knitted by Grannies, supported by Supermodels, we're loving this contemporary accessories label made from ethical wool sourced from rescued sheep and handmade in England. Each piece carries a tag, naming the Granny who made it - how sweet - and as their online store develops, we'll be hearing the story of each knitting Granny!
This innovative label is the brainchild of four special ladies: models Lily Cole, Katherine Poulton (pictured below), Central St Martins graduate Alice Ashby and eco entrepreneur, Isobel Lane. Their collection offers 16 pieces in five different colours and includes contemporary knitted collars, necklaces and chunky headwear, scarves and mittens.
Also making their debut at Estethica is Beautiful Soul, who we've nominated as 'Best Newcomer' onto the eco fashion scene. As we love this debut collection so much, we'll be bringing you a dedicated article on this fabulous new collection later in the week.
To view a complete guide of who exhibited at Estethica, visit London Fashion Week.
Reader Comments (14)
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